When I'm in Paris

One of the joys of living in your own Paris apartment is the ability to get to know your neighborhood in great detail: from the nearest grocery store to the baker, cheese maker, and even the local pub or “bar a vin” (wine bar).

It doesn’t take long for Paris to sink into your skin, and for you to claim a small corner of this magical city as your own. Repetition and courtesy are the key. Remember the “unspoken rules” of Paris: always say “bonjour” or “bonsoir” when entering your local establishment, even if you think no one is listening (they are!), and the same when leaving. Smile if smiled at, but don’t feel pressured to smile first. Remember, rules of etiquette are different in France, and often smiling is reserved for people one knows well and trusts.

Fortunately, this “someone” people know will soon be you, as you become a “regular” in your local places of business.

One of the first spots you will probably get to know well will be your local bakery, or “boulangerie.” France is perhaps one of the last remaining countries in the world where a majority of their residents buy bread at a bakery rather than at a supermarket. About 70% of French residents visit a boulangerie, which according to a 1998 law is defined as a place where dough is actually kneaded and baked on the premises. (The law itself gives you some indication how seriously the French take their bakeries!) There are approximately 34,000 of these fresh bread bakeries in the country.

Most bakeries offer everything from the traditional baguette to pastries, and sometimes sandwiches as well.

If you don’t relish the idea of going to a local butcher shop or sausage maker (charcuterie), you can always head to your local supermarket, such as Shopi or Monoprix. As in other countries, these supermarkets offer a range of food items in addition to basic kitchenware utensils, fresh fruit, cheese and sometimes even cosmetics and clothing.

Speaking of cheese, get to know your local fromagerie, and make a habit of picking up a different cheese each day. It’s a great way to explore the world of cheese, where the options often seem overwhelming! As you find cheeses you like, the experts at these cheese shops will be able to recommend further recommendations for your taste, and often have pamphlets in English describing popular and rare cheeses available.

Your local fruit stand will have the freshest and best options available, as well as vegetables and sometimes seafood. If you’re lucky enough to live near a covered or open air market (and with dozens of these in Paris, it’s very likely you will), this is a great way to do a lot of your “fresh food” shopping in one place. There are the famous markets, of course, such as the Marché Montorgeuil and Marché Mouffetard, but there are many others to choose from, and many waiting for you to discover yourself.

The local Bar a Vin, or Wine Bar, is a great place to buy the occasional sandwich and/or glass of wine. The fun thing about these establishments is how they combine much of the joviality and social aspects of the traditional bar with some of the more upscale elements of a nice brasserie. These tend to attract regulars, and often becoming a regular yourself means the occasional offer of a free glass of a new wine, and conversation with familiar faces.

Of course, one of the practical aspects of apartment living means being able to save money by preparing your own morning breakfast at home, but live a little! Your local brasserie (café doubling as a restaurant) is a great place to have a quick breakfast or lunch on the cheap, and your local café is a wonderful way to while away the morning with the newspaper and a cup of coffee.

Needless to say, your local pharmacy is also an indispensable part of your neighborhood. You’ll know it by the soothing green cross (often neon). The pharmacist’s role in France is slightly more hands-on than in other countries, and as a result the pharmacist is highly qualified to offer basic medical advice and suggestions. Avail yourself of their expert opinion, and don’t be surprised if she or he recommends something you’ve never tried before. There are many excellent remedies and brands in France not available in other countries, which will work wonders.

We hope you will have a wonderful stay in Paris. Paris is not just a place to visit once, it’s a “home away from home” for many, if only for a little while. And when you return, look for a new apartment in the same area. Unlike in the U.S., where life often seems a blur, you may be pleasantly surprised to return months, even years later, and find the same wonderful “cast of characters” you left behind, welcoming you back with open arms.

About the author: Pablo Lopez is a contributing writer for Welcome2France, a Paris apartment rental service. ©2008 All rights reserved.