Apr 15 2010
Daily Bread in Paris
As soon as I unpack my bags in my Paris rental apartment, no matter which arrondisement I’m staying in, I head out to scour the neighborhood for what will become my daily baguette…well, okay, my daily baguettes, because I always buy two – one for now and one for toasting the next morning.
And maybe a croissant or two, as well.
No matter where you are, there are sure to be several options for your baguette of choice. I first look to see if any of the local boulangeries (those are the stores that sell bread, plus usually some small sandwiches and pastries) have the word “Artisan” on the door or awning. To be an artisanal bakery, they have to make the bread on the premises, always a good sign.
Now I’ve learned from a good friend in Paris to ask for, “Une baguette tradition, s’il vous plait,” rather than the usual baguette ordinaire. The tradi, as the French call it, is made only with wheat flour, water, salt and yeast; no additives are allowed – by law. It has a bit coarser texture and better flavor, they say. A baguette tradition usually costs a bit more than the ordinaire – around €1.20.
You sometimes hear Parisians ordering their baguettes, “bien cuite,” well-baked, or “pas trop cuite,” not too done. So many choices!
But one of the joys of exploring the neighborhood is that you might just find yourself eating something you hadn’t counted on. On my last stay in Paris, walking home from Opéra, I stumbled into Boulangerie Eric Kayser, one of eight boulangeries of that name in Paris. In the racks was the most intriguing of breads, a baguette covered in seeds, dark and light — millet, sesame, sunflower. Noting the sign, I asked for “une baguette céréale, s’il vous plait.” I got it home and fell in love.
When I broke it open (I never cut baguettes unless I’m planning to toast the pieces), the interior was a warm honey brown, with a distinctive flavor I can’t describe…except to say I wanted more. For the next few days, I did everything I could to walk by Eric Kayser on the way home for another pain aux cérérales. Lucky for all of us, there are several Eric Kayser locations where you can buy them in the city.
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