When I'm in Paris

by Sheila Campbell

Paris is full of a never-ending panoply of special exhibitions at museums and galleries, plus lots of events that occur annually. You can see a full list of exhibitions and events in the Welcome2France newsletter. If you’re visiting Paris in May, it’s your last chance to see some of these special shows and events:

May 6 – 16

Bastille Antiques Fair

Place de la Bastille, Metro Bastille

€8

Ending May 8

Tribute to Jerome Robbins

Palais Garnier

Intersection of rues Scribe and Auber, Metro Opéra

€6 – 54

May 8 – 9

French Wine Fair (Salon de la Revue du Vin de France)

Palais Brongniart

Place de la Bourse, rue Notre Dame des Victoires, Metro Bourse Grands Boulevards

Various prices.

On May 15

Nuit des Musées

Many museums open 7pm to 1am.

Entrance free at participating museums.

May 22 – 24

Capitol Nature, A Work Poetic and Exhilarating

The Champs Elysées is transformed into three acres of trees and crops.

Entrance free, from the Arc de Triomphe to the Rond Point

May 16 – 30

Saint Germain Jazz Festival

Various locations.

Prices vary by artist.

Ending May 24

Turner and the Old Masters

Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais

3, avenue du Général Eisenhower, Metro Champs Elysées Clemenceau or Franklin Roosevelt

€11 (closed Tuesdays)

Ending May 24

Holy Russia: Russian Art through Peter the Great

Musée du Louvre, Metro Musée du Louvre or Louvre Rivoli

€9 (closed Tuesdays)

Tags: Bastille Antiques Fair, Champs Elysées, French Wine Fair, Grand Palais, Jerome Robbins, Louvre, Nuit des Musées, Palais Garnier, Saint Germain Jazz Festival

As soon as I unpack my bags in my Paris rental apartment, no matter which arrondisement I’m staying in, I head out to scour the neighborhood for what will become my daily baguette…well, okay, my daily baguettes, because I always buy two – one for now and one for toasting the next morning. And maybe a croissant or two, as well.

No matter where you are, there are sure to be several options for your baguette of choice. I first look to see if any of the local boulangeries (those are the stores that sell bread, plus usually some small sandwiches and pastries) have the word “Artisan” on the door or awning. To be an artisanal bakery, they have to make the bread on the premises, always a good sign.

Now I’ve learned from a good friend in Paris to ask for, “Une baguette tradition, s’il vous plait,” rather than the usual baguette ordinaire. The tradi, as the French call it, is made only with wheat flour, water, salt and yeast; no additives are allowed – by law. It has a bit coarser texture and better flavor, they say. A baguette tradition usually costs a bit more than the ordinaire – around €1.20.

You sometimes hear Parisians ordering their baguettes, “bien cuite,” well-baked, or “pas trop cuite,” not too done. So many choices!

But one of the joys of exploring the neighborhood is that you might just find yourself eating something you hadn’t counted on. On my last stay in Paris, walking home from Opéra, I stumbled into Boulangerie Eric Kayser, one of eight boulangeries of that name in Paris. In the racks was the most intriguing of breads, a baguette covered in seeds, dark and light — millet, sesame, sunflower. Noting the sign, I asked for “une baguette céréale, s’il vous plait.” I got it home and fell in love.

When I broke it open (I never cut baguettes unless I’m planning to toast the pieces), the interior was a warm honey brown, with a distinctive flavor I can’t describe…except to say I wanted more. For the next few days, I did everything I could to walk by Eric Kayser on the way home for another pain aux cérérales. Lucky for all of us, there are several Eric Kayser locations where you can buy them in the city.

Tags: baguette, baguette tradition, Eric Kayser, pain aux cereales, Paris apartment rental

by Sheila Campbell

Where should you choose to stay when you’re looking for an apartment rental in Paris? There are plenty of choices beyond the obvious, and because the Paris Metro and bus systems are so easy to navigate, you can get just about anywhere quickly.

For several years, I booked my stays in the Marais, an old section of Paris that wasn’t torn down during the Haussmann years. It’s filled with small restaurants, edgy boutiques and several off-the-beaten path museums – plus it’s within walking distance of the Louvre.

But now I’ve grown to love exploring other arrondisements as well. The further away from the tourist center you go, the more you get that true neighborhood feeling, where you can walk to the bakery in the next block to pick up your morning’s baguette, and stop at the local caviste on the way home to choose a bottle of wine.

Paris, as you can clearly see from our map, is divided into 20 arrondisements, each with its own flavor. These areas are arranged like a snail, beginning with the lst on the right (northern) bank of the Seine. Here are a few areas that you might want to consider:

lst: The Louvre, Palais Royale, the Tuileries gardens and Les Halles are all located here. This is the prime tourist area of Paris, and yet you can still find quiet neighborhoods.

2nd: North of the first, this is often thought of as a business area. The Bourse, the Paris stock market, is found here. Your apartment would likely be within walking distance of rue Montorgeuil, one of the most vibrant of the Paris market streets, where you can buy lush fruits and vegetables, artisanal chocolates, fresh fish and just-roasted chickens off the spit. Many centuries-old cooking supply shops are nearby too, so staying in the second can be heaven for foodies.

3rd and 4th: This is the Marais, where you’ll find lots of small shops and restaurants, plus the Shoah Memorial and Village Saint-Paul for antiques. The Ile St. Louis, a quiet enclave on an island in the Seine, is here, as is the Ile de la Cité with Notre Dame. If you like history, you’ll love this area.

5th: The Latin Quarter, on the Left Bank of the Seine, is known for the Sorbonne and student hangouts, but many stylish restaurants are springing up here. Rue Mouffetard is a well-known food shopping street. The Jardin des Plantes – one of my favorite gardens in Paris—and the Institut du Monde Arabe are also in the 5th.

6th: Saint-Germain on the Left Bank is where you find lots of shopping and dining, including some of the most famous cafés like Les Deux Magots. The magnificent St. Sulpice church is here, and the beautiful Jardins du Luxembourg.

7th: This is an upscale residential area on the Left Bank which also features the Eiffel Tower, the Musée D’Orsay, the Invalides and the Rodin museum. The exquisite shopping street rue Cler runs through the 7th. Many Americans choose this area for their apartments – but that also means you’ll hear a lot of English spoken on the streets.

8th: This is a beautiful area which has the Arc de Triomphe, the Madeleine, much of the Champs Elysées and the small but exquisite Parc Monceau…and some of the city’s most exclusive shopping.

9th: In the lower ninth are the Opéra, and the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores, so if you’re a shopper, this might be your area. At its northern edge you get into the more exotic Pigalle section of Montmartre, although there are also lots of little shops and restaurants to enjoy.

10th: Canal St. Martin runs through the 10th. Once the location of tanneries and dye shops, it’s now an artsy area with small shops and restaurants.

11th: The Bastille opera house is here, surrounded by many small shops and places to eat. The Sunday open-air Bastille markets bustles with all kinds of shopping and foods to take home, and the Marché Aligre, a covered market, is open every day.

14th – 15th: These Left Bank arrondisements are less visited by tourists, except for Montparnasse in the 14th. There’s a high-quality Sunday street art market there, right near the Henri Cartier-Bresson Foundation with its photo exhibits. And this is definitely the place for delicious Breton crepes. Some people say the Porte de Vanves weekend antiques street market is the best in Paris.

16th: If you want upscale residential living, this is your arrondisement. Specialty food shops abound. The 16th also contains the Musée Marmottan, the Palais de Tokyo and the Baccarat Museum, and it borders the huge Bois de Boulogne with its Longchamp horse-racing course.

17th: A mostly residential area of diverse neighborhoods, the 17th is within walking distance of the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs Elysées. There are many small neighborhood restaurants  — some quite excellent – to discover. The rue Poncelet street markets and the Ternes covered market provide you with tempting tastes almost every day.

18th: Montmartre is the section of Paris that feels most like a village, with beautiful apartments, many fashionable small shops and a great food street. Unlike most of the city, it has steep hills, and you can enjoy magnificent views from the church of Sacre Coeur.

Tags: arrondisements, Bastille market, Jardins du Luxembourg, Latin Quarter, Louvre, Marais, Montmartre, Montparnasse, Paris apartment rental, rue Cler, rue Montorgeuil

Welcome2France is run by a group of friends who own exquisitely furnished Paris apartments in the very heart of the city of lights.

Paris’ art and culture scene is the spotlight during Nuit Blanche, Paris’ all-night culture fest that takes place each Fall.

October 3rd, 2009 will mark the 8th edition of this cultural exhibition, as some of Paris’ most interesting art, musical and theatre-performance groups put on special performances throughout the night. The three focal points for the event in 2009 will be the areas of Buttes-Chaumont, Chatelet-Marais and the Quartier Latin.

Events will include musical performances (from classical to hip-hop), art installations from sculpture to photography, projections, fighter planes, abstract art, watercolor, video installations, crystal sculpture, mixed media, musical and light installations, and much more.

In yet a further extension of this celebration, the cultural event also extends to ten neighboring cities and numerous cities throughout Europe and beyond. “Nuit Blanche” literally translates to “White Night,” but it has a secondary meaning in French for “All-Nighter.”

Although its origination is claimed by three different cities (Paris, St. Petersburg and Berlin), the indisputable fact is that, since 1997, the cultural celebration has spread to many cities, which have each given it a name in the local language. In Italy, it’s “La Notte Bianca,” in Spain “La Noche en Blanco,” “Lejl Imdawwal” in Maltese, among many others. (It’s also taken other forms, such as “White Linen Night” in New Orleans, an all-night art celebration that takes place during mid-summer.)

In addition to official events, there are countless (literally hundreds) of spots throughout the city with special things to see and do. Galleries, museums, even swimming pools: the list is endless and admission is generally free to the public.

Some tips on getting around

This is October in Paris, which can mean chilly weather and unexpected showers. Dress warmly, and bring that all-important rain poncho and umbrella. (We recommend bringing along a compact travel umbrella. If you’re going to be taking pictures, this often will slip right into a camera or shoulder bag.)

Understand that Nuit Blanche is a popular citywide event, which means lots of people out and about. Although crime in Paris is rare, as always when traveling, keep a sensible eye on your belongings, any special documentation or traveler’s checks in an inside-clothing travel pouch.

Watch the time! Unless you’re somewhere that’s easy to reach by cab, understand the Métro closes at 2 AM, which may mean you have to leave a lot sooner if you need to make more than one connection. It does reopen again at 5:30 AM, if you’re feeling truly adventurous. Be aware it may be packed toward the later part of the night.

You can download the full schedule of events and map here:
http://goparis.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=goparis&cdn=travel&tm=115&f=21&su=p284.9.336.ip_p531.50.336.ip_&tt=11&bt=0&bts=0&zu=http%3A//www.nuitblanche2009.com/les-buttes-chaumont.html%231

Here’s a full summary:
http://goparis.about.com/gi/o.htm?zi=1/XJ&zTi=1&sdn=goparis&cdn=travel&tm=117&f=21&su=p284.9.336.ip_p531.50.336.ip_&tt=11&bt=0&bts=0&zu=http%3A//www.nuitblanche2009.com/img/editor/file/PressPack_Nuit%2520Blanche_%25202009.pdf

As always, in addition to the above keep a good Paris walking map on you, such as “Paris Pratique” (available at most Tabac and news agents).

The Rue Montorgueil has a unique “double honor”. On one hand, it is one of Paris’ oldest and most venerated shopping streets, boasting Paris’ oldest bakery, which opened its doors in the early 1700s.

On the other hand, it is one of Paris’ most trendy streets today, due in large part to its plentiful assortment of famous restaurants, cafés, cheese shops, organic groceries, wine shops, fish stores, flower stores and nearby cultural centers. As a result, the Montorgueil has become an “in” spot to “see and be seen” while doing one’s shopping in a social setting with firm roots in Paris’ history.

But where is the rue Montorgueil exactly?

Located in the middle of the very-central 2nd district, the Montorgueil has a close proximity to some of Paris’ most sought-after attractions. The Louvre museum is about 1.5 miles away, and the über-trendy Marais neighborhood is even closer, less than a mile.

There are several attractions even closer. Located at the southern end of the street are the famous Saint-Eustache Church, the Museum of Contemporary Art (Beaubourg Museum in the Georges Pompidou Center) and Les Halles, Paris’ sprawling underground shopping mall. North of the street is the old Opera house and the area known as the Grands Boulevards, with stores such as Printemps and the venerated art deco establishment, Galeries Lafayette.

On the street itself, in addition to plentiful places to shop for organic and other food, is the one-and-only Maison Stohrer, one of the most revered pastry shops (patisseries) and caterers. Elaborate frescoes and carvings decorate the front and inside.

The 2nd district is also home to a number of shopping galleries from the 18th century, such as La Gallerie Vivienne, with its ornate mosaic floor and upscale wine, tea and book shops. Earthier is the Passage Choiseul, which has a rather more New York businesslike feel, as it serves many of those who work in the nearby treasury (Bourse). Other include the Passage du Grand-Cerf , Passage des Panoramas and Passages des Princes.

In the 2nd you’ll also find la Bibliothèque Nationale de France, and the Place des Victoires, the beautiful round ’square’ with an equestrian statue of King Louis the XIVth and XVIIth architecture all around.

And of course, not far away is the beautiful Seine, rue de Rivoli and Seine.

Let’s face it: You deserve a break today.

In difficult economic times, you probably need it more than ever. The burning question is, can you afford it?

If you come to Paris in February, the answer is a resounding Yes!

This is also a very magical time of year, so read on.

February is Paris’ low season, when all of Paris is on sale, from shopping, airfare to luxury Paris apartment rentals from trusted agencies like Welcome2France.com. So you can make that “dream vacation” to the City of Lights for much less pocket change than any other time of year.

What better way for couples to celebrate Valentine’s Day than with a trip to the world’s most romantic city? Shop-a-holics will find a veritable paradise of bargains, and art lovers have quite a lot to celebrate, too, as museums offer special exhibits on masters both modern and antique.

Singles will find a variety of fun events, as well. This is Paris! You’ll never be at a loss for things to do.

The low-season also means getting a better look at popular attractions such as the Notre Dame, and Eiffel Tower, as lines are lower than any other time of year.

Whether you want to have fun in a local skating rinks, or sit for hours in a toasty café with hot chocolate and espresso, February in Paris has a charm and an energy all its own, that no other time of year can capture. Unlike so many times of year, where crowds of tourists seem to flock everywhere you step, in February the city seems to exist for you and you alone. This is the Paris of Hemingway and Sartre, the Paris of locals, the Paris of deeper poetry.

Café-hop or stroll through the Latin Quarter or Saint Germain. Take a trip to Montmartre. Enjoy the many things to do during this month, all over the city.

Be sure to pack warm, as cold temperatures still linger, usually between 36 degrees and 38 degrees. Paris is a rainy city, and February is no exception, with around 1.5 inches of rain. There can be snow, too, so bring lots of warm sweater, scarves, mittens or gloves and a hat to cover your ears.

Also be sure to bring a sturdy umbrella that can hold up against gusts, and waterproof shoes with a good tread, as streets can be icy and slippery. You’ll probably want to steer well clear or high-heels or dress shows.

Remember the magic of sitting in warm cafés in February, so bring lots of good books and magazines.

Needless to say, shopping in Paris during February is a topic unto itself, with many opportunities to save on amazing brands. February is the tail-end of the winter sales season, with much merchandise the lowest it will ever be. We recommend a money pouch that goes under your clothes.

You may also wish to read more about Paris’ sales season. (Dates vary a little each year.)

We look forward to seeing you in Paris in February!

Those visiting Paris for the first time will have many questions.

Welcome2France.com, one of Paris’ most established apartment rental agencies, presents a brief “Do’s and Don’ts” for those who would like a brief overview.

Do:

- Understand the importance of knowing some basic French phrases, and when to use them. (The answer to “when to use them” is “constantly”!) In etiquette-obsessed Paris, a few phrases go a very long way. Always say “bonjour” (“good day”) or “bonsoir” (“good evening”) when entering a café, restaurant, shop or other establishment. Say “merci” (thank you”) or “au revoir” (“goobye”) when leaving. Say “bonjour, excusez-moi” (“hello, excuse me”) before asking a question on the street. These phrases will work wonders. The ultimate phrase before asking a question may be “excusez-moi de vous deranger” (“excuse me for bothering you”), which will almost always illicit an overwhelmingly sympathetic and helpful response.

- Keep your ticket after entering the Métro. You may be asked for it by the Métro police as proof of payment. Don’t take it personally. This is the system. You can discard it after exiting the Métro at your final stop.

- Take the Métro at night, and enjoy walking around Paris at night. This is one of Europe’s safest metropolitan areas. Exercise normal caution, of course, but don’t be too afraid to have fun, either.

- Walk rather than cab. Seeing the little nooks and byways of Paris are half the fun! You may also consider taking the bus rather than the Métro, for the better view.

- Consider renting apartments in the 9th-18th districts. The 18th is the setting of the movie Amelie, and is considered by many to be one of Paris’ most charming area. Those who say “never rent above the 7th or 8th district” probably do not know Paris well. For example, an apartment in the 10th may be literally across the street from an apartment in the 2nd or 3rd, and will usually be much better priced because visitors don’t know the way Paris is laid out. Central Paris is arranged in a spiral, like a snail’s shell, so don’t go by “numbers alone.” Ask to see a Google map link. The question is, how far is it from what you want to see by Métro, or walk? Central Paris is quite small, and Métro can take whisk you practically anywhere in minutes. Saving money on an apartment rental in Paris means more money for delicious meals and other fun.

Don’t:

- Expect café or restaurant service to be on “U.S. time.” Things are likely to go at a much slower pace, so don’t be surprised or annoyed, as this is a cultural difference. In the U.S., everything is rated by its efficiency and speed. This is not the French way. The French way is slow and relaxed. Enjoy it.

- Be hurt if a smile isn’t returned. In many countries, a smile is used to show one means no harm, and to fail to return a smile is an insult. The Parisians have a frank, formal mentality, and believe a smile is used mainly between friends. They practice this with each other, just as they do with tourists. So while you may experience many lovely smiles, remember they often do this as a courtesy for tourists. If you don’t receive a smile back, remember the French way is simply different, and in time you can expect to see them surface. Remember: Much of the world is casual; Paris is formal.

- Don’t expect that, as a customer, you will always be right! This is a tough one for many American tourists. In the U.S., employee turnover is high compared to France, and in the U.S. efficiency is prized above all. As a result, U.S. management has been trained to always side with the customer. In France, where bonds between people are closer and more enduring, and jobs are typically held for years, managers may choose to side with the employee rather than the customer! Again, this is a cultural difference in a society that prizes quality of life above speed or efficiency. If you ever move to France permanently, this is a side of French life you may well come to treasure.

- Expect ice with drinks! As in much of Europe, ice cubes do not come in many drinks. You can ask for it, of course, (“glacons” are ice cubes), but be aware they may not always be available!

The main thing, of course, is to relax and enjoy Parisian life. The pace is slow, the people love formal (not casual) manners, and this is what makes Paris the unique place that it is!

And as one of Europe’s safest and most beautiful cities, it may be that little needs changing. So enjoy your trip and collect the many wonderful memories that are the hallmark of every trip to the City of Lights!

Nowadays value is king, and vendors all across the world are lowering prices to meet customer’s expectations in an economy where there seems a little less money to go around.

As in other markets, searching for the lowest price and the deepest discount has become the focus for many in the search for vacation and business apartment rentals in Paris.

And the good news is, there are great discounts to be found in the market, if you know where to look.

There is, however, a darker side to the rush for value and discounts.

French tourism offices have been flooded with complaints from unwary visitors who have found themselves in discount apartment rentals in Paris with plumbing problems, lack of hot water, broken fixtures, and hosts of other issues with seemingly no recourse for service or help.

The recession has hit the Parisian service industry hard, and a few rental agencies in Paris have even gone bankrupt.

This means less trusted agencies to choose from, and more individual owners with little or no experience renting their apartments. As an added complication, less trusted agencies means less “tried and true” apartments to go around, which also drives traffic to offerings from inexperienced single owners.

When it comes to fly-by-night agencies and individual apartment owners, the issues are twofold:

1) Lack of a service network dedicated to helping tenants should any issue arise, and

2) Lack of experience in how to help guests have a comfortable stay that doesn’t interfere with their plans in Paris (amenities, professional and timely greeting and check-out, professional cleaning and linen, etc.).

The watchword should be “caution.”

- Be aware of prices that seem too good to be true
- Don’t be afraid to ask detailed questions about location, amenities, and whether there is a dedicated service person in case of any issues
- Be sure they have a reputation of some kind, including full contact information, testimonials and that the renter has some sort of business history

As with most things in life, remember “you get what you pay for.”

With a little caution, every visitor to Paris should be able to strike a happy balance between value and the necessities to make their stay in Paris a “once-in-a-lifetime” experience.

Welcome2France.com, Paris’ leading apartment rental agency to the United States, is pleased to bring you this series of articles and to answer any questions you may have.

Paris’ two biggest (and we do mean big!) sale seasons are in July and January. So get ready to take advantage of extraordinary deals and savings, soon!

Sales are called “soldes” in Paris, so you’ll be seeing this word cropping up all around the city in July. The summer sale season truly starts off with a bang, with virtually every brand offering their entire line at discounts as deep as 40-50% off! And as if that wasn’t deep enough, generally prices fall an additional 20% off during the latter part of the sales season! (The sales period tends to last 6 weeks.)

Tourists can often enjoy an additional 10% in the bigger department stores such as the Galeries Lafayatte, Printemps, etc. Simply go to their information desks and ask about acquiring a special savings card for visitors. Usually the discount applies to certain items. Some may not be eigible, so ask what the rules or restrictions are. Either way, you’re sure to find a heck of a bargain during July.

These bi-annual selling periods are actually state-regulated, and are times to coincide before Parisians head to their summer locales in August, with another to banish the year prior’s inventory in January. The sales encompass more than clothing: everything from kitchen appliances to hardware is deeply marked down,

The tricks are the same as you could expect during any other frenzied shopping period. Arriving early gets you the best chance of finding the best bargains. You may also want to go to hotspots the day before the blitz, to see what items you’re most interested in.

Bring your politeness and patience. You’ll need both to get the most from salespeople, and just to weather the madness internally. Take a deep breath, expect to wait, and you’ll be fine. If it helps, pack a lunch and bring a book to read.

Dress for comfort, and for quick-changing when you’re trying on clothes (avoid wearing clothing with lots of buttons, for example). Wear very comfortable walking shoes (as you may well be traipsing about all day).

If you have your eye on a high-ticket item, be aware if there are many of them available, it will probably go on deeper discount midway through the season. Of course, if you think it’s in short supply, you may wish to indulge yourself. After all, that’s the beauty of the sales period. At the same time, waiting too long (especially past midway through the season) means the item you have your eye on may no longer be available. If you’re on a budget, you may well wish to skip the first couple of weeks and just see what’s left over for the second half. There will still be a lot of great things available, at a very discounted price, but many of the more expensive items will be sold out. Of course, most Parisians opt for a mixed approach: Go early, buy something you can’t live without, return midway for the items you’re not 100% sure of, then a final sweep near the end for the less important items at the best price.

As in any market, don’t hesitate to “cross check” prices between stores.

And most of all, be sure to know the return policy. (Many stores don’t allow returns of items purchased during sales seasons!)

And finally, many top Parisian stores have discounts online, as well. So feel free to shop even if you’re not in Paris!

In addition to the main department stores, there are numerous outlet stores in Paris to experience, all over the city and environs.

Here is a great list of stores to consider visiting:

http://www.pariswoman.com/archives/outlet_stores.htm